The Jessica Van Nest Guide to London: A Non-Intellectual's Perspective

A friend of mine who is visiting London in the coming weeks wrote me recently asking for a local’s perspective of London.  I excitedly wrote her back, tracking all of my favorite places to eat, shop and play. 

(And then was depressed for a solid day.  I miss our days in London.)

Anyway, here is what I have affectionately dubbed The Non-Intellectual’s Guide to London.

FOOD

Obviously, I have to recommend our very favorite restaurant, Poem.  It's off the beaten track and, in my very humble and non-foodie opinion has some of the best food in London. And it was a stone's throw away from our house, on the corner of Abbey Road and Boundary Road. I honestly have dreams about visiting London and going back to Poem...they have the most wonderful owners, nicest staff and amazing food - the lamb stew and bread and butter pudding are to.die.for. We became regulars, visiting at least four times a week...so if you go, please give them our best. 

The best place for Fish n’ Chips is The Clarence on Whitehall.

Gordon's Wine Bar is also a really cool place and the oldest wine bar in London. I would just go for wine/cheese/bread...it gets really crowded and I don't think the mains are worth it.

For an awesome atmosphere, great music and dancing go to Ronnie Scott's, Europe's first jazz club.  We only went to Ronnie's Bar, rather than the club - cheaper and more our style. 

For great tapas food, Fino.  Awesome date restaurant and it’s the first place we went without Eliza.

The best Indian food is at Meghna, on Boundary Road/Abbey Road...we miss them dearly, too.  

Have afternoon tea at The Langham (my fave), The Ritz or Claridges.

Buy lots of cookies from Ben's Cookies (Holy macadamia nut white chocolate cookie...).

You have to try Hummingbird Bakery - my favorite cupcake is the Black Bottom and Scott raves over the brownies.

SHOPPING

If you knit, stop into Tricolette (again, on Boundary) and say hi to Lynne for me - she's the nicest lady you'll ever meet. In fact, if you're in the neighborhood, pop in anyway and say hi.

Visit Fortnum & Mason for teas, coffees and other awesome non-cheesy souvenirs. (Their Connoisseur's Blend of coffee is really good - I am wishing I brought back more with me as I just ran out!)

Make sure to go to Daunt Books on Marleybone High Street (my favorite of all High Streets). Best book store. Old, creaky, charming...

Browse Liberty of London.  Heaven.

Great weekend markets: Chelsea, Borough Market, Camden, Portobello Road (Notting Hill), just to name a few.

I hated Harrod’s…but if you still want the big department store experience, go to Selfridges.  

TO DO

Take the London Bus tour - you can get tickets right outside Baker Street Station - any of the companies are good. 

Do the London Eye - such a great view of London. I recommend doing it at dusk. We did the champagne dusk flight on our last night in London and it's something I'll never forget.

Listen to Big Ben chime - it'll send shivers up your spine. Big Ben is my favorite landmark in London.

Take a picnic to Regent's Park and watch the people...

The SoHo and Covent Garden's neighborhoods are really fun....Mayfair is fun to wander through…Bond Street for I-could-never-afford-that shopping…Kensington High Street is a fab place for shopping and cafes.

MISCELLANEOUS TIPS

Definitely get an Oyster card as soon as you can. It'll make using the public transportation easier; just swipe your card and go. I highly recommend the buses and the tube - such a great way to get around.

If you don't use public transportation, the black cabs are fantastic. London has the smartest, nicest cabbies. They have to go to school for 3-5 years in order to drive a cab.

If you want to use a hired service, I recommend Meadway. They are cheap and on time, most of the time anyways.  If you don't have an idea of how to get from the airport to your hotel, I would definitely use them. I believe it's ₤32 - kinda pricey but worth every penny. Getting from Heathrow to Central London on the tube can be a long, confusing and frustrating trip. With Meadway, they greet you at the airport with a sign with your name (which, let's face it, is always cool) and take you to your door.

Use ATMs to get cash, not the money exchanges. The UK ATMs (or cash points) shouldn't charge you a fee for using them.

As far as tipping goes, it's not typically customary to tip your bartenders...we just usually rounded up. Same with the cab drivers - although, if they were really nice, I gave them ₤1-₤5 extra, depending on the length of the journey.

And, just a heads up, when paying at restaurants, they use a little portable credit card reader and swipe everything right there - it's really convenient and I wish they would bring it over to the States.

And speaking of going to restaurants - the waiter and waitresses won't bother you like they typically do every two minutes here in the US. Sometimes it's nice, sometimes, like when you're trying to pay and leave, it's annoying - just be patient.  And if you want water, be sure to ask for tap water, otherwise they'll bring you still (purified) or sparkling.  And be sure to ask for ice if you want it cold!

Dress-wise, take layers. London can feel like summer on one block and winter on another. And wear comfortable shoes however, if you wear trainers, you'll have American written all over you (not that that's a bad thing). 

Go see a West End show, drink a warm beer, browse one of the many (FREE!) world-class museums, try new foods, talk to strangers (if you dare - your friendliness may be mistaken for insanity), take in the amazing London view from the Waterloo Bridge...

Most importantly, take it all in and enjoy one of the most wonderful, beautiful, cultural and lively cities in the world!